pannegb

Problem	Possible cause
The starter doesn't work	- Flat battery - Rusty or loose battery cables (battery terminals and starter terminal) - Loose ground main wire onto the engine - Cracked bakelite insulator onto the starter body (+ battery) - Dirty or worn starter brushes - Worn starter relay - Dirty starter button connection
The starter works but doesn't drive the engine, there is a noise to the RHS of the engine	- Worn/broken starter flywheel
The starter works, the engine turns but it doesn't start	- No fuel in the tank, fuel taps on "off", blocked air vent onto the tank cap, blocked fuel filters - Choke system doesn't work (blocked plungers, broken cable) - Kill switch on "Off" or moisture inside the kill switch - Blown main fuse - Worn main switch (no current to the ignition module) - Points too tight (650/750) - Worn engine stop relay (1000/1200) - Worn ignition module (1000/1200) - If detonation in the exhausts while trying to start, worn ballast resistors (1000/1200 equipped with Bosch BTZ)

Problem	Possible cause
Misfires occur at any speed	- Points too tight (650/750) - Worn condensers (650/750) - Wrong electric insulation of the points (650/750) - Pick-ups set incorrectly (1000/1200) - Worn resistance ballast (1000/1200 with Bosch BTZ) - Bad connections to the main fuse - Worn or damaged ignition module (1000/1200) - Bad current supply or ground connection to the ignition module (1000/1200) - Bad fuel supply - Too cold plugs
Misfires occur only when accelerating	- Too much ignition advance - Fuel accelerator pumps uncorrectly set (750 SF2/SF3/1000/1200) - Ignition points uncorrectly set (650/750) - Worn condensers (650/750) - Mixture too lean - Mixture really too rich
Misfires occur when decelerating, with detonations in the exhausts	- Mixture too lean

Problem

Possible cause

Lack of power

- Ignition points uncorrectly set (650/750)
- Blocked ignition advance centrifugal system (650/750)
- Pick-ups uncorrectly set (1000/1200)
- Bad current supply or ground connection to the ignition module (1000/1200)
- Uncorrect advance setting
- Worn or damaged ignition module (1000/1200)
- Bad fuel supply (blocked cap vent, blocked filters)
- Bad carb setting, notably too rich
- Worn piston rings
- Valve clearance too small
- Worn valves
- Bad fuel supply on race engines, use the same fuel suplly system as the RGSs
- Blocked or dirty air filter
- Air leak
- Bad timing setting

Problem	Possible cause
No or unstable tick over	- Ignition points uncorrectly set (650/750) - Pick-ups uncorrectly set (1000/1200) - Worn or damaged ignition module (1000/1200) - Valve clearance too small - Bad timing setting - Worn valves - Spark plugs too cold - Blocked choke system - Worn piston rings - Air leak

Problem	Possible cause
Noise to the top	- Broken or damaged amshafts druff key (650/750) - Loose assembling nuts of the camshafts (650/750) - Loose or damaged cam bearing (1000/1200) - Worn timing chain - Worn timing chain guide and tensioner. In case of leaking head gasket near the cam chain tunnel, the tensionner wheel can be melted and destroyed.
Noise to the bottom	- loose R and L crank nuts - Locker whasher (to the sprocket on the LHS of the crank) too thin - Worn clutch drum silent-blocks - Worn primary chains - Worn chain tensionner - Worn mainshaft bearings - Worn clutch drum bush - Worn crankshaft bearings

Problem	Possible cause
Excessive vibes	- Unbalanced carbs - Wrong ignition advance setting - Loose engine fixing points (650/750/1000 180°) - Worn engine silent-blocks (1000 120°) - Damaged or incorrectly rebuilt crank

Problem	Possible cause
Too rich	- Dirty or seized choke plungers or cables too much tightened - Jets too big - Dirty air filter - Wrong cut of the throttle slides - Worn float valvesPointeaux non étanches - Sunk float
Too lean	- Air leak - Jets too small - Worn throttle slides or wrong cut - Uncorrect float level

Problem	Possible cause
Huile sort par le reniflard	- Worn piston rings - Oil level too high - Occurs at very high engine speed: Fit a second breather to the cam cover or to the oil dipstick place

Problem	Possible cause
Clutch slips	- Wrong oil type, 100 % synthetic with automotive additives, automotive oil. It's necessary to come back to a specified oil after having cleaned or changed the clutch discs - 1000 120°: insert a extra steel plate between the two friction plates that usually run against each other

Problem	Possible cause
Excessive stiffness	- Cable is not routed correctly (no sharp angles) - Cable and levels are not lubed correctly - Worn balls and/or rods inside the mainshaft - 1000/1200: Wrong clutch drum type (several lenghts were available)

Problem	Possible cause
Selection is imprecise, wrong neutrals, one or several gears don't run	- Eccentric screw incorrectly set: Adjust the eccentric screw for equal up and down movement with the gears shifted into 4th gear (not neutral) - Washers between selector case and selector spring incorrectly set or missing - Worn selector drum spring - Worn selection system (too much play)
Gearbox blocked on only one gear	- Selector spring incorrectly fitted: Curved end should be to the top.

Problem	Possible cause
Pinking	- Ignition points uncorrectly set (650/750) - Too much ignition advance - Air leak

Problem	Possible cause
Smokes	- Exhaust gaskets (copper) not sealing - Worn valve guides - Worn piston rings - Black smoke: Fuel mixture too rich

Problem	Possible cause
Impossible balance	- Worn or damaged top part of the carbs - Worn throttle slides - Setting screws too loose

Problem	Possible cause
Fuel overflows	- Worn float valves - Sunk float - Blocked float bowl vent