NB: These instructions are given for guidance only and cannot engage the liability of the author, DAM Classic Racing or JLO-Tech in the event of misinterpretation, failure to assess the vehicle's actual condition and/or non-conformity, unsuitable mechanical practice or the use of inappropriate tools. If in doubt, consult a qualified mechanic.
Official fitting manual for the DAM Easy Clutch. Refer to the Laverda factory workshop manual. Drain the engine oil (or firmly lean the bike onto its left side) before starting.
Removal
- Fully slacken the cable adjuster at the handlebar and at the engine.
- Remove the rubber plug from the clutch inspection hole. Disconnect the cable from the actuator and remove it from the cases.
- Gearbox in neutral. Remove the gear lever.
- Undo the 3 bolts of the outer cover and remove it (light tap with a plastic mallet; do not lever with a sharp tool). (a.) Note the position of the O-rings, washers and shims. (b.) Note how the spring sits either side of the eccentric bolt. DO NOT adjust the eccentric unless the gearchange needs it.
- Move the selector claw away from the selector drum and remove the mechanism with its spring. (c.) Through the hole in the cases, note the alignment mark on the drum against the inner gear, to refit it in the same position.
- Remove the selector drum.
- Undo the 4 bolts of the inner cover (3 external, 1 internal).
- Remove the inner cover (light mallet tap). The output sprocket and chain are exposed — always dirty from chain lube: prevent any dirt entering the engine.
- Locate the 8 mm ball in the actuator arm.
- Remove the ball and the actuator arm (it simply lifts out).
- Clean the cover thoroughly.
Checking dimensions
(d.) Check that the rod protruding from the centre of the output shaft measures about 11 mm. If it differs noticeably, check the length of both pushrods:
- 180° = 123 mm
- 120° = 133.5 mm
- 750 = 112.5 mm
- Inner ball 6 mm, outer ball 8 mm.
If all these are correct, check the clutch-plate thickness.
Refitting
- Put a little grease on the ball and the lower part of the DAM Easy Clutch arm.
- Insert the DAM actuator arm through the inner-cover inspection hole and position it.
- Refit the ball.
- Make sure the gasket is clean and undamaged.
- Offer up the cover and tighten the 4 bolts (3 external, 1 internal). (e.) Do not overtighten (alloy thread), max. 6 ft-lb (~8 Nm).
- Refit the drum aligning the marks (see c.).
- Refit the selector claw with its spring on the eccentric: spring arms in the "open" position, uncrossed, claw properly engaged on the drum, all shims in place.
- With the rear wheel off the ground, temporarily refit the gear lever and check the gears engage (rocking the wheel back and forth helps). If the eccentric was left alone, the box should work as before.
- Remove the lever, check the shims, fit the outer cover, tighten the 3 bolts (cover flat on the gasket, not binding). Refit the greased O-ring, washer and gear lever.
- Using the supplied special M8 bolt, fit the cable-support piece on the engine case (at the cable's original location), aligned with the actuator.
- Feed the cable outer through the bracket and reconnect the cable to the DAM Easy Clutch arm.
- Adjust the cable tension in the usual way.
- Check the engine oil level before starting.
Notes
1 — The system has two cable-fixing positions: the upper hole gives the lightest pull. If the clutch tends to drag at a standstill, move the cable to the lower position and check: handlebar-lever pivot wear, standard lever fitted (sufficient fulcrum/pull distance), pushrods in good order without ball indentations, standard clutch plates fitted (some aftermarket Kevlar plates are oversize and may cause damage), wear of the lever-bracket roller inside the chaincase.
2 — Selecting neutral at a standstill is tricky on 750 and Series 1 1000/1200 (the round-ended neutral switch is pushed by a round wire and tends to rock). With a worn switch, it is easier to select neutral just before the bike comes to a stop.